The Rise of the Black Cowboy: A Cultural Renaissance
Last year, we explored how cowboys have emerged as style icons, embodying a unique blend of rugged masculinity and Americana. The quintessential cowboy wardrobe—denim, chambray shirts, colorful bandanas, and bedazzled belt buckles—has transcended its historical roots, becoming a canvas for modern fashion. Designers like Raf Simons and Kerby Jean-Raymond have tapped into this aesthetic, but the narrative is evolving, particularly with the resurgence of Black cowboy culture.
The Historical Context
The legacy of Black cowboys is often overlooked in mainstream narratives. In 2016, The Studio Museum in Harlem showcased the "Black Cowboy" exhibition, highlighting the contributions of African-American communities to horsemanship and cowboy culture. Curator Amanda Hunt emphasized the need to challenge the traditional American iconography that has long excluded these vital stories. Artists like Mohamed Bourouissa and Kahlil Joseph brought this history to life, complicating our understanding of what constitutes an American legacy.
The Federation of Black Cowboys, established in New York two decades ago, aims to pass down the knowledge of African-American horsemanship to inner-city youth. This initiative underscores the ongoing existence of Black cowboy communities across the country, from the South to the West.
The Cultural Resurgence
In late 2018, Atlanta rapper Lil Nas X released "Old Town Road," which quickly went viral, thanks in part to the #YeeHawChallenge on TikTok. The song romanticizes the cowboy lifestyle while also critiquing the pitfalls of a hedonistic lifestyle. This cultural moment coincided with a broader revival of cowboy aesthetics in music and fashion, with artists like Dijon blending R&B and folk influences to create a unique sound rooted in this heritage.
At New York Fashion Week, Telfar Clemens transformed the runway into a rodeo for his FW19 presentation, aptly titled "Telfar Country." This event sparked a wave of enthusiasm on social media, as the "black yee-haw agenda" gained traction. Writer Carla Aurelie articulated this movement, highlighting how Black women are leading the charge in redefining cowboy culture.
The Role of Black Women
Black women have become pivotal in reshaping the narrative around cowboy culture. Solange’s visuals for her album When I Get Home paid homage to her Houston roots, igniting a cultural renaissance that celebrates the "black yee-haw agenda." This movement is not merely a trend; it represents a reclamation of identity and heritage.
Bri Malandro, a Dallas native and founder of the Instagram account @theyeehawagenda, coined the term "yee-haw agenda" as a playful nod to the resurgence of western wear. For her, this aesthetic has always been a part of her life, and she aims to create a space where everyone can participate in this cultural revival. Malandro notes that the cowboy aesthetic was prevalent in early 2000s music, making its resurgence feel organic rather than contrived.
The Significance of Headwear
Gabriela Wilson, a non-fiction writer and digital archivist, has also contributed to this movement through her account @blackgirlsincowboyhats. Initially a personal archive, the account has evolved into a collaborative art project celebrating Black women in cowboy hats. Wilson draws connections between cowboy headwear and other cultural symbols, such as bonnets and church hats, exploring the deeper meanings behind these images.
She references Michael Cunningham’s Crowns, which showcases Black women in church hats, as a source of inspiration. For Wilson, the imagery of Black women in cowboy hats serves as a powerful counter-narrative to traditional American iconography, reclaiming space in a culture that has often marginalized their contributions.
The Broader Impact
The current political climate has heightened racial tensions, making the resurgence of the "yee-haw agenda" even more significant. As younger generations grapple with these issues, the cowboy aesthetic offers a unique lens through which to explore identity and heritage. The movement is not just about fashion; it’s about reclaiming a narrative that has long been dominated by white male perspectives.
Megan Thee Stallion, a Houston rapper, has embraced her Texan roots, further popularizing the cowboy aesthetic. The "yee-haw" trend has even crossed international borders, influencing artists in the UK and beyond. Social media platforms are buzzing with images and discussions around Black cowboy culture, showcasing its rich history and contemporary relevance.
A Lasting Legacy
As the "yee-haw agenda" continues to evolve, it serves as a reminder of the complexities of American identity. The contributions of Black cowboys and cowgirls are integral to the fabric of this culture, and their stories are finally being recognized and celebrated. The movement is not just a fleeting trend; it represents a broader cultural renaissance that honors the past while looking toward the future.
In this ongoing dialogue, Black women are at the forefront, redefining what it means to be a cowboy in contemporary society. Their influence is reshaping perceptions and challenging stereotypes, ensuring that the legacy of Black cowboys remains vibrant and relevant in the cultural landscape.

